Sunday, February 14, 2010

Communism in Viet Nam

I didn't have any idea what to expect when traveling in a communist country. It's good, because none of my stereotypes about communism have born up. Perhaps they would elsewhere, but not here.

I've never been virolently anti-communist, nor pro-communist. I've always considered it just another form of government with its own set of good points and bad. Certainly capitalism has its faults and as much as I love my country, I don't think it's the best in the world. A good place to live for many people, certainly, but not all.

First of all, people own their own houses and businesses and motorbikes. There is definitely a rich class here, as well as poorer people. Unlike the states, there aren't homeless people here. Our guide was saying that it is not communism but the culture. If you have family, you have a home. A family would never, ever leave one of their own to sleep on the street or starve.

There are some huge gorgeous French colonial homes here, multimillion dollars in the states. I asked my guide and he said that a family of four lives in them. Most of the homes I have seen are from two to four stories high, with the bottom one or two floors devoted to a family business, like a store or restaurant. They are row houses, long and skinny, with lovely French colonial fronts and backs, and no sides. When we were on the bay, we saw floating houses that were very simple, and some of the boat houses we've seen on the river in Hue were extremely modest. There definitly are richer and more humble people here.

I've only seen one person beg. I've seen no one that looks underfed or injured or in need of medical care. The one handicapped person I saw had a job and was obviously respected by his colleagues in the store he worked in. Medical care is free. I don't know how good it is as I've thankfully not needed it, but it is free for everyone.

My mother was in China twenty years ago and there was one style of bicycle in one color that everyone rode. Here there are hundreds of styles of motorbikes, from old and clanky to very fine, and the cars I've seen have all been luxury models.

Our guide here volunteers on a regular basis for forest restoration, in orphanages, and in hospitals. I thought it must be at least semi-compulsary, but no. He says that he is unusual and most people don't. He doesn't have a family and doesn't know what to do with his free time, so he volunteers.

People here are encouraged to have small families, "One or two for better care." There are no penalties, though, if you choose to have a bigger family. This is a newer policy. Our guide, in his early thirties, was one of four children, and his father is one of nine.

There is only one political party allowed, the Communist Party of Viet Nam. They have elections every four years and while there are more than one candidate, they are all part of the same party. Our guide says he does not bother to vote because "it doesn't matter who wins."

Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum is venerated. We went to an old king's resort complex and effigy yesterday. While it was not venerated to the same extent, it was protected and open to the public. The old royal complex in Hue is also protected and a popular tourist destination for both Vietnamese and foreigners. Much of it was destroyed in the wars with the French and Americans, and they are rebuilding the old complex, to be opened in 2020. The Thai royal family has built a temple in the complex in honor of the last royal dynasty. There is a movement to protect the history of Viet Nam, even if it does not conform to current ideology.

Disparaging comments about the government are not allowed, and religions are controlled. It used to be an athiest country, I believe, but now certain religions are allowed but not all. Most people are Buddhist, Confuscians, Taoist, or Catholic. There are other religions allowed, but one was working against the government and is now heavily controlled but not completely disallowed, I don't think.

There are Vietnamese flags everywhere, often alongside the communist flag. They just celebrated 80 years of communism on Feb. 3rd, so it may be just part of the celebration. I don't know. They are quite beautiful.

It's a very interesting experience, learning about communism here. Our guide says it's not true communism, more like socialism, and he says the hearts of the Vietnamese are not really communist.

The government is, though.

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